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Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Eating My Way Across Trinidad

Hello fellow food lovers. I just got back from Trinidad, and let's just say it's a good thing my pants were loose when I got there. Trinidad is renowned for its food traditions - with 40% of the population descended from India, I knew I'd be in heaven - but traditional Indian foods have definitely undergone a delicious island spin. We'll start with breakfast - crazy, I know. Trinidad is known for "doubles," a common street food sold out of vendor's trucks all over the island. We beelined for our guides' favorite and weren't disappointed. Its closest approximation is a sandwich; each piece of "bread" is a lightly fried round, spiced and colored with turmeric, and between them is a filling of curried chick peas called channa - as spicy as you can stand it. (Doubles photo at top courtesy of Jon Whittle)

Let's move on to lunch: The other biggie on Trinidad is bake and shark, and the most famous place to get it is at Richard's on Maracas Beach. Naturally, we made a beeline. It's a deep-fried shark filet, most commonly blacktip shark, sandwiched between a "bake," a lot like Navajo fry bread, and slathered with as many Trini condiments as you can handle. Don't skip the cilantro sauce or the tamarind sauce, whatever you do; hot sauce I'll leave up to your tolerance for pain. Paired with a cold Carib beer, there's no better lunch to be had.
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