A Delicious Departure

I was in Port Antonio for three days and inhaled more Jamaican jerk than I care to admit. Our home base Great Huts was literally steps away from the famous stands at Boston Beach,* so twice a day we’d take a seat at the counter at my favorite, Little David’s, for our daily dose of jerk pork, chicken and sausage dressed in a spicy/sweet mixture of ketchup and jerk seasoning, with festival and hardo (similar to sourdough) bread on the side.

But on a trip into the town of Port Antonio day before yesterday we stumbled upon one of the areas most elegant restaurants, Norma’s at the Marina. Its namesake is Norma Shirley, Jamaica’s most famous chef, and although she wasn’t there that day, the “nouveau Jamaican” fare we enjoyed certainly lived up to her reputation.

Seated on the cruise ship pier (apparently ships call here only once or twice a year) we lingered over a sumptuous feast that began with smoked marlin on garlic toast, and crab cakes accompanied by a flavorful and inventive yellow beetroot slaw.

The main event was a huge escoveitched snapper, fried to perfection then bathed in a tangy pickle. For the last few days we’d eaten almost every meal at a roadside counter, using our hands as utensils and pieces of foil as plates. To dine at a linen-draped table at the water’s edge, listening to the birds and taking in the view of Norma’s golden-sand beach and the tranquil bay beyond, was an unexpected delight and a relaxing and refreshing change.

Of course, no meal is complete without a cocktail, so we forced ourselves to try one of Norma’s specials, and bartender Trevor Hartley was kind enough to share the recipe. Since it calls for equal measures of all ingredients, the recipe is easily adaptable to make larger quantities, so why not whip up a pitcher and celebrate the holiday weekend Jamaican style?

Yellow Bird
1 oz overproof white rum
1 oz dark rum
1oz crème de banane
1oz orange juice
1 oz pineapple juice
dash of Angostura bitters


Shake all ingredients together with ice; add Angostura bitters; garnish with a lime wheel. Enjoy.







*This just in: Jamaica has just announced plans to create a “jerk trail” that will take visitors on a culinary journey across the island sampling the fare of 10 of the best jerk stands, including those in the home of jerk, Boston Beach. For more info, go to www.visitjamaica.com/jerk.

A Delicious Departure

Polin' Down The River

Torrential rain scuttled my plan to visit Reach Falls this morning (May is rainy season in Jamaica), but the afternoon turned out to be unforgettable.

After an elegant lunch at Norma’s at the Marina (more about that tomorrow) we headed west to the Rio Grande for a rafting trip along one of the island’s largest waterways. Our captain was Tony Pearson, an 18-year veteran who expertly piloted our 30-foot-long-by-3-foot-wide bamboo craft while sharing with us the history of the uniquely Jamaican attraction.

As we glided along, Tony explained how back in the 1950s, the swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn (who once lived in Port Antonio) was the first to recognize the tourism potential of the rafts, which were originally used to transport bananas and other produce from inland farms to the port. Today, Tony and 160 of his fellow licensed captains ferry tourists on the scenic ride that begins 30 minutes up the mountainside in the tiny village of Berrydale, and (depending on water conditions) ends 90 minutes to two-and-a-half hours later where the river empties into the Caribbean in St. Margaret’s Bay.

To say the experience was magical is an understatement. Floating through the verdant and peaceful valley, accompanied only by the sound of birdsong, is a transcendental experience. Most of the time the river’s surface is flat and mirror-like, but in certain spots rapids rush and gurgle over large river stones, which scrape the bottom of the bamboo craft and make you thankful for the skill of your captain, who, let’s face it, has your life in his capable hands. Mountains soar above you on either side, cloaked in towering stands of giant bamboo and a tangle of wild orchids and colorful heliconia plants. Rafting the Rio Grande offers an opportunity to see Jamaica at its unspoilt best, with cows, goats and the odd fisherman harvesting crayfish your only company.

I could go on and on, but trust me, anything I write will pale in comparison to the singular beauty of the experience. If your travels take you to Jamaica, you simply MUST check it out for yourself. The tour – including transportation to Port Antonio – can be arranged through hotels all over the island. Or if you are already in Porty, call captain Tony directly at 876- 461-4191. Rafting costs $72 per two-person raft, plus approximately $17 for the taxi from St. Margaret’s Bay up to the starting point at Berrydale.

In the meantime, enjoy this short video of captain Tony explaining the origin of rafting in Jamaica. (Patois translation not included.)


And for more about Port Antonio’s charms, check out Chris Cox’s Great Escape.

Polin' Down The River