Polin' Down The River

Torrential rain scuttled my plan to visit Reach Falls this morning (May is rainy season in Jamaica), but the afternoon turned out to be unforgettable.

After an elegant lunch at Norma’s at the Marina (more about that tomorrow) we headed west to the Rio Grande for a rafting trip along one of the island’s largest waterways. Our captain was Tony Pearson, an 18-year veteran who expertly piloted our 30-foot-long-by-3-foot-wide bamboo craft while sharing with us the history of the uniquely Jamaican attraction.

As we glided along, Tony explained how back in the 1950s, the swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn (who once lived in Port Antonio) was the first to recognize the tourism potential of the rafts, which were originally used to transport bananas and other produce from inland farms to the port. Today, Tony and 160 of his fellow licensed captains ferry tourists on the scenic ride that begins 30 minutes up the mountainside in the tiny village of Berrydale, and (depending on water conditions) ends 90 minutes to two-and-a-half hours later where the river empties into the Caribbean in St. Margaret’s Bay.

To say the experience was magical is an understatement. Floating through the verdant and peaceful valley, accompanied only by the sound of birdsong, is a transcendental experience. Most of the time the river’s surface is flat and mirror-like, but in certain spots rapids rush and gurgle over large river stones, which scrape the bottom of the bamboo craft and make you thankful for the skill of your captain, who, let’s face it, has your life in his capable hands. Mountains soar above you on either side, cloaked in towering stands of giant bamboo and a tangle of wild orchids and colorful heliconia plants. Rafting the Rio Grande offers an opportunity to see Jamaica at its unspoilt best, with cows, goats and the odd fisherman harvesting crayfish your only company.

I could go on and on, but trust me, anything I write will pale in comparison to the singular beauty of the experience. If your travels take you to Jamaica, you simply MUST check it out for yourself. The tour – including transportation to Port Antonio – can be arranged through hotels all over the island. Or if you are already in Porty, call captain Tony directly at 876- 461-4191. Rafting costs $72 per two-person raft, plus approximately $17 for the taxi from St. Margaret’s Bay up to the starting point at Berrydale.

In the meantime, enjoy this short video of captain Tony explaining the origin of rafting in Jamaica. (Patois translation not included.)


And for more about Port Antonio’s charms, check out Chris Cox’s Great Escape.

Polin' Down The River