Swimming Pigs

There's no way to sugarcoat this...it's exactly what it looks like.

My friends and I spent a week recently boating through the gorgeous Exuma cays in the Bahamas, stopping for picnics on deserted sandbars, and dropping anchor here and there to snorkel in shallow seas. Along the way, we also tried to hit all the must-see spots: the hollowed out sea-cave at Thunderball Grotto, the protected marine land at the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park, and of course all the best beach bars from Stocking Island to Staniel Cay.

Not wanting to miss a thing on our boating adventure, we couldn't resist stopping to see the curious swimming pigs at Big Major Cay that we'd heard so much about. Roaming free on their own secluded isle, the famous oinkers are known to take a dip and piggie-paddle over to your boat as soon as they hear you coming. Conditioned through years of generous feedings from yachties and day-trippers, these piggies hear the soft purr of an approaching motor and to them, it's the gunshot at the start of a race.

We'd heard the stories, but seeing them dive in right before our eyes was an entirely different experience. I'm not much of a farm girl myself, but I'm still pretty sure that swimming is an unusual sport for most livestock. And they were surprisingly excellent swimmers, like little pig-shaped dolphin. We were mystified. Which I think is the only explanation for what happened next...

We dove in too. We swam with the swimming pigs. I'm sure that it's been done before by a handful of intrepid vacationers, but this was the era of swine flu concerns, and we felt daring, fearless, like pioneers bridging the gap between the human and animal worlds. The pigs were unimpressed by the symbolism, but they still ate a couple soggy handfuls of our leftovers, and in a show of gratitude they stuck around afterward for a few unforgettable snapshots.

Swimming Pigs

New Passport Rules

Just a reminder for all of you island-hoppers: As Matt mentioned in a recent post, the passport rules are changing this week. Here's what you need to know...

WHAT: The Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative

WHAT'S DIFFERENT: You probably already know you need a passport when traveling overseas by air - but with this new initiative, you will also be required to show a passport (or the new passport card, which is sufficient for most Caribbean destinations) when traveling by land or sea. So cruise-shippers and yachties, take note: a birth certificate and proof of identity will no longer be enough to enter your favorite Caribbean ports.

WHEN: Effective June 1, 2009

WHY: Because it's just fun to shake things up. But really it's meant to tighten border security and streamline the protocol for reentry to the U.S. from most foreign destinations.

Of course there are a few exceptions to the new requirements, so check out the official State Department site for the whole scoop plus links to purchase or renew your passport and/or passport card:

www.travel.state.gov

Bon Voyage!

New Passport Rules

Double Upgrades in the Riviera Maya

As I discovered last week, there isn't much to see on the two-hour drive from the Cancun airport to Tulum: the occasional gas station, roadside vendors selling fruit and other goodies, and a deserted two-lane road unfolding toward the horizon. For two people looking to get away from it all, it was a good sign. Still, two hours is no quick ride, so to pass the time we counted the opulent entrances to what seemed like innumerable upscale and all-inclusive resorts that line the Riviera Maya. My favorite one along the way by far was the colossal entrance to the new Grand Velas resort. We couldn't even see the property itself beyond the massive walls and lush landscaping, but the gorgeous gated entry practically screamed luxury and exclusivity.

That's why I was surprised to find out that the resort is offering an affordable new travel package that brings the upscale destination within reach for families. For the lowest all-inclusive rate of $300 per person per night, guests will receive a double upgrade to an ocean-front Ambassador Suite (with a private terrace and pool!) - already a savings of $220 per person per night - plus kids 16 and under stay and eat free the whole time. For a family of four, it's a great low season rate that includes all of your meals, drinks, activities - even taxes and gratuities. The offer is good through September 30, so just check out the Grand Velas web site for details and to book your fabulous summer escape.

Double Upgrades in the Riviera Maya

Saluting Our Troops with Caribbean Deals

To show support for our troops, several travel and tourism organizations have started offering huge savings to active and retired military members on their next vacations. Marriott has introduced a new Military Golf Program called Fairway Furloughs, giving golf-loving servicemen and women the chance to play a variety of courses for between $29 and $69 per round, including carts. But the biggest such savings I've seen by far can be found at the Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort in Montego Bay. The all-inclusive resort is offering troops a 55-percent discount on room rates plus bonus amenities including automatic room upgrades, match play casino credits and an instant 10-percent savings on treatments at the Sol-Mer Spa. Just book and travel by December 23, using promotion code 155MIL when you reserve your room.

Saluting Our Troops with Caribbean Deals

A Couples Thing

Sunday was the final day of my Jamaican adventure, which took me 550 kilometers along the island’s north coast, from Montego Bay to Negril in the west, then east to Port Antonio, westward again to Ocho Rios and finally back to Mo’Bay.

My last three nights I was ensconced at Couples Tower Isle (formerly Couples Ocho Rios), checking out the changes to the romantic, 226-room all-inclusive resort, which reopened on Easter Sunday after a yearlong, $30 million renovation. At 60, it is one of Jamaica’s oldest properties, and in its 1950s heyday as The Tower Isle Hotel welcomed royalty and Hollywood stars. The hotel became the Caribbean’s first all-inclusive resort when Jamaican owner Abe Issa (who is widely acknowledged as the father of the island’s tourism) introduced the concept to Jamaica in 1978, and renamed the hotel Couples Ocho Rios.

I stopped by for a quick visit last year, and while the hotel was clearly as popular as ever, it was showing some wear. So it was particularly gratifying to see how beautifully the grande dame of all-inclusive resorts has been restored to her former glory. Interior designer (and co-owner of Negril’s Idle Awhile) Jane Issa has revamped every inch in a retro-modern style that combines art deco- and mid-century modern- influenced furniture and lighting with contemporary accents. Twenty new rooms, a spa, two restaurants and a second pool have been added, and the guest rooms, piano bar, gym, original pool and public areas have all been renovated. The overall effect combines Rat Pack sleek with tropical chic, and homage is paid to the hotel’s heritage with Tower Isle memorabilia throughout.

I do have some small criticisms: Although the resort offers free Wi-Fi, travelers now expect it to be available in rooms and not just in the lobby. An open, walk-in shower is a great concept, but the entire bathroom floor flooded every time I bathed. And it seemed odd that a resort of Couples’ standard doesn’t have robes in the room (nor did I see them in the new spa).

Nevertheless, just over a month since reopening, CTI is looking better than ever, guests are clearly enjoying the enhancements, and once the inevitable re-opening bugs are worked out, they’ll be hard-pressed to find fault. With free horseback riding and glass bottom boat tours, as well as complimentary excursions to Ocho Rios for shopping and to Jamaica’s iconic Dunn’s River Falls, Couples remains one of the best values in the Caribbean all-inclusive resort category. Factor in attentive service and enhanced amenities, and you’ve got three good reasons to consider it for your next vacation.

A Couples Thing

One Cool Family Vacation

I just got back from Aruba, and I can tell you from personal experience, you'll earn some serious brownie points with the kids if you take advantage their "One Cool Family Vacation" offer, which kicks off the summer on June 1, and take the family there this summer. Resorts are offering a bunch of incentives for kids - they'll sleep and eat breakfast for free at participating resorts and you'll get a family gift on check-in and complimentary kid's activities, too.

Once you leave the resort, you'll get $10 off per couple on a Baby Beach Tour or Snorkel North Coast Tour, and kids under 12 will get a free gift when you participate in a half-day Jeep Tour or purchase a day pass to De Palm Island, home of some awesome water slides (trust me, I tried them all). Perks go on and on - surf over to aruba.com for details. Don't let down the kiddies!

One Cool Family Vacation

A Delicious Departure

I was in Port Antonio for three days and inhaled more Jamaican jerk than I care to admit. Our home base Great Huts was literally steps away from the famous stands at Boston Beach,* so twice a day we’d take a seat at the counter at my favorite, Little David’s, for our daily dose of jerk pork, chicken and sausage dressed in a spicy/sweet mixture of ketchup and jerk seasoning, with festival and hardo (similar to sourdough) bread on the side.

But on a trip into the town of Port Antonio day before yesterday we stumbled upon one of the areas most elegant restaurants, Norma’s at the Marina. Its namesake is Norma Shirley, Jamaica’s most famous chef, and although she wasn’t there that day, the “nouveau Jamaican” fare we enjoyed certainly lived up to her reputation.

Seated on the cruise ship pier (apparently ships call here only once or twice a year) we lingered over a sumptuous feast that began with smoked marlin on garlic toast, and crab cakes accompanied by a flavorful and inventive yellow beetroot slaw.

The main event was a huge escoveitched snapper, fried to perfection then bathed in a tangy pickle. For the last few days we’d eaten almost every meal at a roadside counter, using our hands as utensils and pieces of foil as plates. To dine at a linen-draped table at the water’s edge, listening to the birds and taking in the view of Norma’s golden-sand beach and the tranquil bay beyond, was an unexpected delight and a relaxing and refreshing change.

Of course, no meal is complete without a cocktail, so we forced ourselves to try one of Norma’s specials, and bartender Trevor Hartley was kind enough to share the recipe. Since it calls for equal measures of all ingredients, the recipe is easily adaptable to make larger quantities, so why not whip up a pitcher and celebrate the holiday weekend Jamaican style?

Yellow Bird
1 oz overproof white rum
1 oz dark rum
1oz crème de banane
1oz orange juice
1 oz pineapple juice
dash of Angostura bitters


Shake all ingredients together with ice; add Angostura bitters; garnish with a lime wheel. Enjoy.







*This just in: Jamaica has just announced plans to create a “jerk trail” that will take visitors on a culinary journey across the island sampling the fare of 10 of the best jerk stands, including those in the home of jerk, Boston Beach. For more info, go to www.visitjamaica.com/jerk.

A Delicious Departure

Hola Riviera Maya

As I mentioned in a recent post, I'll be taking my first vacation to the Riviera Maya tomorrow! My plan is to explore the beaches, eat massive amounts of yummy enchiladas, sample the local cervezas and check out the Maya ruins at Tulum...but as always, I'd love to know your questions and suggestions about the area, too. Let me know by leaving a comment here or posting on our Facebook wall...



If you've been thinking about taking a trip to Mexico yourself but you're still unsure of the situation there, I definitely recommend checking out the Riviera Maya's new tourism site:

www.holarivieramaya.com

Now that the H1N1 flu virus is under control, the folks over there want to show the world how safe, beautiful and enjoyable the destination is, so the site has all the latest travel news and information you'll need to plan your visit. Plus, the site features text, photo and video postings from residents and visitors who are already there - and loving it.

Once you're ready to book that vacation, don't forget to check our travel specials for great deals around the Riviera Maya.

Hola Riviera Maya

Polin' Down The River

Torrential rain scuttled my plan to visit Reach Falls this morning (May is rainy season in Jamaica), but the afternoon turned out to be unforgettable.

After an elegant lunch at Norma’s at the Marina (more about that tomorrow) we headed west to the Rio Grande for a rafting trip along one of the island’s largest waterways. Our captain was Tony Pearson, an 18-year veteran who expertly piloted our 30-foot-long-by-3-foot-wide bamboo craft while sharing with us the history of the uniquely Jamaican attraction.

As we glided along, Tony explained how back in the 1950s, the swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn (who once lived in Port Antonio) was the first to recognize the tourism potential of the rafts, which were originally used to transport bananas and other produce from inland farms to the port. Today, Tony and 160 of his fellow licensed captains ferry tourists on the scenic ride that begins 30 minutes up the mountainside in the tiny village of Berrydale, and (depending on water conditions) ends 90 minutes to two-and-a-half hours later where the river empties into the Caribbean in St. Margaret’s Bay.

To say the experience was magical is an understatement. Floating through the verdant and peaceful valley, accompanied only by the sound of birdsong, is a transcendental experience. Most of the time the river’s surface is flat and mirror-like, but in certain spots rapids rush and gurgle over large river stones, which scrape the bottom of the bamboo craft and make you thankful for the skill of your captain, who, let’s face it, has your life in his capable hands. Mountains soar above you on either side, cloaked in towering stands of giant bamboo and a tangle of wild orchids and colorful heliconia plants. Rafting the Rio Grande offers an opportunity to see Jamaica at its unspoilt best, with cows, goats and the odd fisherman harvesting crayfish your only company.

I could go on and on, but trust me, anything I write will pale in comparison to the singular beauty of the experience. If your travels take you to Jamaica, you simply MUST check it out for yourself. The tour – including transportation to Port Antonio – can be arranged through hotels all over the island. Or if you are already in Porty, call captain Tony directly at 876- 461-4191. Rafting costs $72 per two-person raft, plus approximately $17 for the taxi from St. Margaret’s Bay up to the starting point at Berrydale.

In the meantime, enjoy this short video of captain Tony explaining the origin of rafting in Jamaica. (Patois translation not included.)


And for more about Port Antonio’s charms, check out Chris Cox’s Great Escape.

Polin' Down The River

Perks for Parents

A ton of our travel specials cater to families - including special "kids free" and "kids club" promotions at resorts around the Caribbean - so it's always a great time to start planning that next family vacation. But I ask you...what about a little something for the moms and dads once in a while?

The St. Kitts Marriott Resort must have been thinking the same thing, because their new Indulge in Value package offers the perfect treat for parents: unlimited golf at the Royal St. Kitts Golf Club AND unlimited spa treatments at the resort's Emerald Mist Spa. Whichever your pleasure, both are included in the room rate starting at $299 per night double occupancy. And when these guys say unlimited, they mean it...go ahead and squeeze in an early morning round on the 18-hole, par-71 course, then hit the spa for a massage, facial, body treatment, or hey - get all three. Feel like hitting the tees again after that? Go crazy.

But, like any really great promotion, there's something in it for the little ones, too. In addition to the resort's beachfront locale and eight family-friendly, on-site restaurants, The St. Kitts Marriott also boasts the Pirates of St. Kitts Kids Club, offering supervised sun and fun time for kids aged 5 to 12.

The deal is good through December 18, so just log on to the resort's web site and use promotion code SUM when you book.

Perks for Parents

Return To The Blue Lagoon

Today’s agenda was classic Port Antonio: Leaving my base camp at Great Huts, we visited the idyllic beach at Frenchman’s Cove, where we bathed in its bracing river-fed waters; feasted on jerk chicken and roast breadfruit at Boston Beach; and strolled the windswept sands of Long Bay to the east. But the highlight of the day turned out to be something completely unplanned: an impromptu boat tour around the Blue Lagoon, also known as Blue Hole.

I remember going there once as a young child on a day trip with my parents. We dined on the deck of the restaurant at the water’s edge, and I longed to swim in the limpid waters that seemed to change color throughout the day, depending on the light. But everyone said the lagoon was bottomless and I recall being afraid that I might be sucked down into its depths, so I kept my little feet firmly planted on the jetty.

Now the once-elegant restaurant is shuttered and dilapidated, and the entire property is officially closed for redevelopment. According to a sign I saw, its scheduled to reopen later this year, but if you venture down the narrow road to the water, there’s no shortage of unofficial guides eager to take you on a boat tour of the stunning location where the 1980 Brooke Shields classic The Blue Lagoon was filmed.

The water is just as beautiful as I remember it (although my happy snaps don’t do it justice). And now that the attraction is closed to the public, the entire area is eerily quiet and seems even more mysterious than it did all those years ago. As for the legend of it being bottomless? My intrepid guide Leroy Brown told me that the lagoon’s deepest point has been confirmed at 180 feet below the surface of the limestone pool.

Erroneous legends aside, the Blue Lagoon is one of Jamaica’s most beautiful spots, and you can’t help but be enchanted by its natural beauty. Here’s hoping that the planned development will preserve its mystique and that the lagoon will reopen soon. Until then, if you’re in the area, ask for Leroy Brown (876-864-7855) and tell him Sarah sent you.

Return To The Blue Lagoon

Seasons of Change in the Bahamas

I just returned from a boating trip through the gorgeous Exumas, where I spent the week zipping between deserted cays, shoring up on quiet sandbars for picnics of fresh conch salad, and sharing a round of cold Kaliks and a game of dominoes with locals and friends at the George Town fish fry. Far from the tourist trappings that lie elsewhere in the Bahamas, the laid-back Exumas are a quiet strand of 365 islands and cays whose greatest appeal - to me - is actually the area's lack of mass tourism. With a population of around 4,500, the community-centric Exumas have boutique hotel operations scattered across a few cays, and no real shopping or nightlife to speak of, so they attract a different, more adventurous sort of traveler...In a way, those who come here are the backpackers of Caribbean travel, unafraid to toss a few things into a beach bag, kick off their shoes and explore the sprawling seas and shores with neither plan nor map.

Seeing this geographical and social make-up of the Exumas myself, I had mixed feelings when I heard the news on my first night in town that Great Exuma's Four Seasons Resort at Emerald Bay will be closing its doors – permanently – on May 26. A sign of these tough times, the dissolution of the luxury property happened fast, with the announcement giving only two weeks' notice and taking the resort's 500 employees by surprise. Beyond the jobs that will be lost, a number of peripheral businesses, from boat tour operators to neighboring shop and restaurant owners, have come to depend on the Four Seasons traveler, and may struggle to keep their companies afloat.

But true to their laid-back, “good things soon come” nature, the locals I spoke with weren’t devastated by the news. Most weren't even worried. For all of its shock-value, the announcement seemed only to be fodder for “sip sip” – Bahamian for gossip – and did nothing to quash the residents' high spirits. I think KB – owner of my favorite beach bar in the area, nearby Stocking Island’s Chat ‘n’ Chill – put it best when he explained “What keeps us going are the people here: the residents, vacationers and boaters. That’s the core. We were here before the Four Seasons, and we’ll be here long after.”

Amen to that, because I can hardly wait to go back.

Seasons of Change in the Bahamas

Go Mexico

The U.S. Department of State just announced that their travel alert to Mexico due to the outbreak of H1N1 (swine flu) is no longer in effect. The CDC has also announced that they have lifted their own travel warning against non-essential travel to Mexico...Now, that warning has been downgraded to a "Travel Health Precaution" meant for those most at risk of complications stemming from any type of influenza.

Outside of the U.S., several countries in South America and Europe as well as the U.K. have also lifted their advisories and have resumed air travel to Mexico, and Carnival cruise lines will resume port calls to the country soon.

It's all great news for Mexico, and the nation's travel and tourism industry is eager to welcome visitors back to its shores. I'm actually planning my first ever vacation to Tulum next week and I couldn't be more excited! I'll keep you posted on my travels, and I hope you'll consider Mexico once again for your own.

Go Mexico

What A Jerk!

You know how some Caribbean restaurants have a stunning waterfront location, beautiful décor and disappointingly mediocre food? Scotchie’s is the opposite. In an uninspiring location that resembles a construction site on a dusty shoulder of the main road east of Montego Bay, it serves jerk specialties that are so delicious you’ll be forever in the debt of the kind soul who clued you in to this unpretentious eatery.

Montegonians – and visitors in the know - flock to this humble joint to buy pork by the pound, and quarter, half or whole chickens infused with the uniquely Jamaican combination of spices and fiery Scotch bonnet peppers (for which the establishment is named) that make up the jerk rub with which it is seasoned. Slow-smoked over a barbecue grill made of logs from the pimento (allspice) tree, the resulting meat is tender, juicy and sanctified with an addictive heat that’ll have you reaching for more – even as your eyes water and your nose runs from its sting. Enjoy it with a side of festival (sweet, fried finger-like dumplings), then wash it down with a Red Stripe or frosty bottle of Ting grapefruit soda, and you’re good to go.

Scotchie’s was my first stop after arriving at the airport in Montego Bay this weekend (it’s only 10 minutes away), and something tells me that I might have to sample its incendiary fare on my way out, too.

What A Jerk!

For What it’s Worth

In these times of economic stress, it’s important to break down your budget before a vacation, see what you can really afford and what you want to splurge on. The island of Nevis has helpfully compiled a list of activities available on-island that won’t break the bank.

Free: Wander the waterfront capital of Charlestown’s Saturday morning fruit and vegetable market — go ahead, pick something up for breakfast, it’ll still be a low-cost excursion.

Under $50: Check out what’s going on underwater with a snorkeling lesson from Under the Sea Sealife Centre for $25 per person. You’ll get a semi-private lesson and a little over an hour in the water. undertheseanevis.com; 869-469-1291

Under $100: After your snorkel lesson, check out the action from horseback. Guided trail rides are available from The Hermitage Plantation Inn’s stables for $55 per person for 1 and ½ hours. hermitagenevis.com; 869-469-3477

Priceless: Enjoying your Nevis vacation, knowing you’ve saved money without having to sacrifice any fun.

What are some of your cost-cutting tips when you go on vacation?

For What it’s Worth

From the Vault

Last time I was in Barbados I came across so many old churches. I had to stop at every one and snap a few photos. Here are a few of my favorites... 

From the Vault

Blame it on the Rain

What at first seemed like a coup for the St. Lucia Jazz Festival, held May 5-10, turned instead into what will surely go down in history as one of the most bizarre performances ever witnessed at the event, as the train wreck that is Amy Winehouse’s career just keeps chugging along. The erstwhile island resident was set to play the main stage on May 8th, but according to the U.K’s Telegraph, she instead spent the less-than-an-hour she was on stage pacing, waving her arms and sucking her thumb. Other shenanigans Ms. Winehouse got up to (other than singing): repeatedly taking off and putting on her shoes, throwing a piece of chewed gum into the crowd and flashing her underwear at the audience multiple times as she played peek-a-boo with her dress. After announcing that she was bored — I guess flashing just isn’t as exciting as it used to be — she stopped singing halfway through a song and walked offstage, roundly booed when she failed to return. Her PR team began damage control immediately, blaming her poor showing on the weather (a downpour) and a lighting failure. I guess all publicity is good publicity, as they say, but may we recommend booking an understudy next time? I hear Milli Vanilli is available, and they’re probably more reliable.

Blame it on the Rain

Hitting The Road

While I haven’t yet realized my dream of visiting the Bahamian Out Islands (yes, I’m looking at you, Reagan), I am busy finalizing plans for another equally exciting trip: an eight-day jaunt to Jamaica, kicking off this weekend.

As relocated “yardie,” I’m always happy to have the opportunity to go back and visit my former homeland and to catch up on the latest on the tourism scene – and if I can find time for some jerk chicken, a Tastee beef patty and fried fish at Hellshire, even better!

This time I’ll be scoping out the scene in the sunset capital of Negril, staying right on the sands of the world-famous beach at the laidback low-rise hotel, Idle Awhile. I haven’t nailed down my agenda, but I know there’s a trip to Rick’s Café in my future. I'm not brave (or crazy) enough to throw myself from the cliffs into the sea below, but watching the death-defying dives of the strapping young men who are is entertainment enough.

Then I’ll be hopping in the rental and driving along the north coast highway east to serene Port Antonio. It’s a long drive (four hours plus) but I’ll be making stops in my old stomping ground of Montego Bay for a plate of ackee and saltfish and a double chocolate malt at The Pelican diner (yum!), and in Ocho Rios to scale Dunn’s River Falls for the umpteenth time. It’s one of those tourist activities that you just have to do when you visit the island, and since my other half will be in tow and seeing the north coast for the first time, it’s a no-brainer.

In Porty, we’ll be checking into eco-resort Great Huts. I was intrigued by contributor Chris Cox’s description of the Boston Beach hideaway in April’s Port Antonio feature and look forward to seeing it for myself. I only recently discovered the sophisticated pleasures of Frenchman’s Cove (while reporting the Beach Lover’s Guide To Jamaica) but its now my favorite Jamaican strand, and I can’t wait to dip my toes in the ice-cold river that runs along the property down to the sea.

After Port Antonio, I’ll be heading east again to Ochi’s Couples Tower Isle. The decades-old hotel (formerly Couples Ocho Rios) is famous for being Jamaica’s first all-inclusive resort, and I’m very excited to see the upgrades that have resulted from the year-long multimillion-dollar renovations.

After three nights there, it’ll be back to Mo’Bay, where we’ll board the Air Jamaica flight home. I’m going to miss the free bubbly (the airline put a cork in its complimentary onboard champagne service as of May 1) but for warm Jamaican “lovebird hospitality,” it’s the only way to fly.

What are your favorite places to see and things to do in Jamaica?

Hitting The Road